cinalia

Mexico

Mexico City

The best anthropology museum on earth, murals on government walls and galleries in Art Deco houses

Mexico Culture index 83 7 venues

The best value in this guide by a wide margin: world-class museums for the price of a coffee and a mural programme painted on the walls of working ministries.

Mexico City holds more museums than any city in the Americas and prices almost all of them at a few euros. The National Museum of Anthropology is the single most impressive building on this list: a modernist courtyard with a concrete umbrella, holding the Aztec sun stone, the Maya rooms and an ethnographic floor that most visitors never reach because they run out of daylight.

The murals are the other reason to come. After the revolution the state commissioned Rivera, Orozco and Siqueiros to paint history on the walls of public buildings, and those buildings still function: you walk past a security desk, through a courtyard, and there is a forty-metre painted argument about the conquest, free of charge, with civil servants walking underneath it.

The contemporary scene is the most energetic in Latin America. Zona Maco in February turns the city into an art week, the galleries of Roma and Condesa sit in Art Deco houses with their original tiles, and the independent spaces programme work that reaches Europe two years later.

The day

Mexico City hour by hour

When things open, when they fill and when the city changes shift.

  1. 09:00Museums open. Anthropology needs four hours and deserves six.
  2. 13:00Murals in the Palacio Nacional and the Secretaría de Educación, free, in buildings that still do government work.
  3. 17:00Galleries in Roma and Condesa, small, free and mostly run by the artists.
  4. 20:00Curtain at Bellas Artes, where the glass curtain by Tiffany is worth the ticket alone.
  5. 23:00Live music in Roma Norte, mezcal bars in Juárez, and a city that stays up late without hurrying.

The quarters

Where to walk

Four districts that between them cover most of what matters.

Chapultepec

The anthropology museum, the modern art museum and a castle on a hill, inside a park twice the size of Central Park.

Centro Histórico

Murals by Rivera and Orozco on the walls of working ministries, and the Bellas Artes palace in marble and glass.

Roma and Condesa

Art Deco streets, independent galleries, bookshops and the best coffee in the Americas.

Coyoacán and San Ángel

The Kahlo house, the Rivera studio and cobbled squares that predate the city around them.

The venues

7 rooms in Mexico City

Plan it

Forty-eight hours in Mexico City

Friday evening to Sunday afternoon, built from the venues above.

Questions

Is Mexico City safe for a culture trip?

The museum districts, Roma, Condesa, Polanco, Coyoacán and the historic centre by day are busy and well policed. Use registered taxis or ride apps at night and keep phones out of sight on the metro.

How much time does the anthropology museum need?

Half a day minimum. If you only have two hours, do the Mexica hall and the Maya hall and come back another day.

Is the altitude a problem?

The city sits at 2 240 metres. Take the first day slowly, drink more water than you think and leave the heavy walking for day two.